Sunday, April 21, 2019

Review: Delimira Soft Cup Wirefree Sleep Comfort Bra

As always, Delimira needs some help naming their bras. I shall call this one 'Olivia'. Because she has a demure and pretty vibe and just looks like an Olivia to me. 

 Beauty

Olivia comes in a couple of pastels, plus neutrals. This is a crossover style and compares very favorably to similar versions by Wacoal and Kindred Bravely that I reviewed previously. In fact, Olivia is a far superior choice, at a lower price. Better fabric, better band, far better straps. 


Comfort & Fit

Fabric.  Silky nylon with a high level of spandex: 23% to be exact. Handy tip: If the spandex percentage is 20% or higher, this is always a great sign when you are looking for a stretchy, yet supportive, fabric that will fit like a second skin. 

This is a more common feature of European brands such as Anita and Chantelle, and far less common in UK brands, which usually rely on stiff, non-stretchy fabric for support. You'll generally see spandex levels of under 10% in UK brands, and very often, zero of it is in the cup. 

The (very few) seams are well-done; very flat and non-irritating.
Cups.  The usual generous capacity I would expect from this brand. Unlike most crossover styles I've tried, Olivia's cups are expecting some actual projection and, happily, have the depth to accommodate it. There is a just-right amount of separation.

The high-spandex content of the cups means that different shapes will not experience gapping or cutting in. Instead, you will get a shape that conforms to your shape, and a very soothing gentle contained feeling.

Straps. Very well-designed. They are wide and form a continuous piece, part of both cup and band. This adds a lot of support and stability, distributing the weight evenly, while not needing a thick or tight band to do so. They are not adjustable, but I don't think that matters. Again, due to the spandex content, they easily stretched enough for me, a tall person, yet provided a lot of stable support. I doubt you'd have any difficulty even if you are petite. 

Band.  Also very well-designed. Nice and minimal, so there is no constrictive feeling and no rolling up. It is soft and flat and does run a little on the snug side, but is true to size. On the low side; always a plus.

Shape.  While termed a 'sleep bra' - and you could certainly use it as such - I would consider Olivia a moderately supportive bralette. She actually gives a bit more lift than the Bali Comfort Revolution that I wear so often as a comfort go-to:

When Do I Wear It?

Weekends and after work; during times of size fluctuation or swelling. Pretty much any time I would wear my Bali bralettes, but want to opt for a thinner, silkier fabric and/or a prettier aesthetic. Great for travel because the fabric dries very quickly. You can definitely wear Olivia out of the house if you are OK with a soft, natural shape that is still supported and gently contained. Which, clearly, I am. 

Size.  40 F/G. Consistent with Delimira's usual sizing. My usual size in the brand is a 40F, which equates to a 40G (UK) or a 40H (US/Euro). This style comes in combined sizes and there is leeway due to the fabric and style. 

Pricepoint: under $20

Review: Delimira Soft Cup Wirefree Sleep Comfort Bra

As always, Delimira needs some help naming their bras. I shall call this one 'Olivia'. Because she has a demure and pretty vibe and just looks like an Olivia to me. 

 Beauty

Olivia comes in a couple of pastels, plus neutrals. This is a crossover style and compares very favorably to similar versions by Wacoal and Kindred Bravely that I reviewed previously. In fact, Olivia is a far superior choice, at a lower price. Better fabric, better band, far better straps. 


Comfort & Fit

Fabric.  Silky nylon with a high level of spandex: 23% to be exact. Handy tip: If the spandex percentage is 20% or higher, this is always a great sign when you are looking for a stretchy, yet supportive, fabric that will fit like a second skin. 

This is a more common feature of European brands such as Anita and Chantelle, and far less common in UK brands, which usually rely on stiff, non-stretchy fabric for support. You'll generally see spandex levels of under 10% in UK brands, and very often, zero of it is in the cup. 

The (very few) seams are well-done; very flat and non-irritating.
Cups.  The usual generous capacity I would expect from this brand. Unlike most crossover styles I've tried, Olivia's cups are expecting some actual projection and, happily, have the depth to accommodate it. There is a just-right amount of separation.

The high-spandex content of the cups means that different shapes will not experience gapping or cutting in. Instead, you will get a shape that conforms to your shape, and a very soothing gentle contained feeling.

Straps. Very well-designed. They are wide and form a continuous piece, part of both cup and band. This adds a lot of support and stability, distributing the weight evenly, while not needing a thick or tight band to do so. They are not adjustable, but I don't think that matters. Again, due to the spandex content, they easily stretched enough for me, a tall person, yet provided a lot of stable support. I doubt you'd have any difficulty even if you are petite. 

Band.  Also very well-designed. Nice and minimal, so there is no constrictive feeling and no rolling up. It is soft and flat and does run a little on the snug side, but is true to size. On the low side; always a plus.

Shape.  While termed a 'sleep bra' - and you could certainly use it as such - I would consider Olivia a moderately supportive bralette. She actually gives a bit more lift than the Bali Comfort Revolution that I wear so often as a comfort go-to:

When Do I Wear It?

Weekends and after work; during times of size fluctuation or swelling. Pretty much any time I would wear my Bali bralettes, but want to opt for a thinner, silkier fabric and/or a prettier aesthetic. Great for travel because the fabric dries very quickly. You can definitely wear Olivia out of the house if you are OK with a soft, natural shape that is still supported and gently contained. Which, clearly, I am. 

Size.  40 F/G. Consistent with Delimira's usual sizing. My usual size in the brand is a 40F, which equates to a 40G (UK) or a 40H (US/Euro). This style comes in combined sizes and there is leeway due to the fabric and style. 

Pricepoint: under $20

Saturday, March 2, 2019

Review: Tutti Rouge Eve Fuller Bust Bralette

I have a lot of love for Tutti Rouge's design aesthetic of frothy confections and whimsical touches. Who doesn't love their now-iconic heart-shaped strap adjustors? But I no longer wear my Tuttis due to the discomfort of the rigid wires and the aggressively tacking gores. 

But I was tempted by this bralette and curious as to what kind of support it might give. 

Beauty


Oh, Tutti, you heartbreaker. 

Eve is gorgeous and opulent. A baroque lace pattern with a sheer tulle overlay. With polka dots. That's right. Only Tutti Rouge can combine lace and polka dots and not have it look over the top.

But is she wearable? Here we go:

Comfort & Fit

Band. There really isn't one, just a deep strip of lace that is elasticized at the top; that provides your minimal baseline support.

Cups.  There is true support here. The soft lace, combined with the mesh overlay, actually gives moderate lift due to its not-very-stretchy effect. The deep-V shape provides a lot of separation -it is holding my relatively close-set boobs further apart than they naturally sit. 

This means you won't get any smooshed together cleavage or sticky boob-sweat, so yay for that. It also means that, unless you are wide-set, you are going to slowly migrate to the center and have to redistribute your boobs repeatedly.

Straps. A regular bra strap with the wider panel of mesh layered over it in front. They are comfy and this combination does increase the support, which is welcome as there is no real band to distribute the weight. I am less enamored of the hybrid harness/cross-back style. It's tough to get a pic of it, but if you ignore the glare & the toothbrush reflection, this gives you some idea:

It is not uncomfy per se, but it makes it needlessly difficult to get into the bralette, as there is no clasp. You really need to have it perfectly aligned before pulling it over your head, as if a strap is tangled, you have zero hope of straightening it out once on. You will have to pull it off and start over. 

Shape. Round, wide, minimized, and surprisingly contained. You can definitely wear the Eve bralette out of the house. I did and found her supportive enough to stand in for a bra. 

Compromises

Straps.  Yeah, they look cool, but the annoyance factor is high. It often takes me two tries to get into the thing. A set of hooks in the back would have improved the whole experience. 

Comfort.  I was ready to take Eve off after about 4 hours. No specific areas of discomfort, except that section of the strap/upper cup that runs close to the armpit. This is really just an ever-present element of UK bra design and I'm not here for it. 

When Do I Wear It?

When I'm feeling that Beauty is more of a priority than Comfort. So, weekend sexy times, basically. Or date night out. Which works out nicely, since you're going to want some assistance in removing Eve. Because crazy straps.

Size. 42F (UK) Tutti bands run quite snug, so this fits me like a 40G, which is my actual size these days. It equates to a US 40H. 

Pricepoint. Regular price on ASOS is $19.50, which is a bargain for the brand. 

Review: Tutti Rouge Eve Fuller Bust Bralette

I have a lot of love for Tutti Rouge's design aesthetic of frothy confections and whimsical touches. Who doesn't love their now-iconic heart-shaped strap adjustors? But I no longer wear my Tuttis due to the discomfort of the rigid wires and the aggressively tacking gores. 

But I was tempted by this bralette and curious as to what kind of support it might give. 

Beauty


Oh, Tutti, you heartbreaker. 

Eve is gorgeous and opulent. A baroque lace pattern with a sheer tulle overlay. With polka dots. That's right. Only Tutti Rouge can combine lace and polka dots and not have it look over the top.

But is she wearable? Here we go:

Comfort & Fit

Band. There really isn't one, just a deep strip of lace that is elasticized at the top; that provides your minimal baseline support.

Cups.  There is true support here. The soft lace, combined with the mesh overlay, actually gives moderate lift due to its not-very-stretchy effect. The deep-V shape provides a lot of separation -it is holding my relatively close-set boobs further apart than they naturally sit. 

This means you won't get any smooshed together cleavage or sticky boob-sweat, so yay for that. It also means that, unless you are wide-set, you are going to slowly migrate to the center and have to redistribute your boobs repeatedly.

Straps. A regular bra strap with the wider panel of mesh layered over it in front. They are comfy and this combination does increase the support, which is welcome as there is no real band to distribute the weight. I am less enamored of the hybrid harness/cross-back style. It's tough to get a pic of it, but if you ignore the glare & the toothbrush reflection, this gives you some idea:

It is not uncomfy per se, but it makes it needlessly difficult to get into the bralette, as there is no clasp. You really need to have it perfectly aligned before pulling it over your head, as if a strap is tangled, you have zero hope of straightening it out once on. You will have to pull it off and start over. 

Shape. Round, wide, minimized, and surprisingly contained. You can definitely wear the Eve bralette out of the house. I did and found her supportive enough to stand in for a bra. 

Compromises

Straps.  Yeah, they look cool, but the annoyance factor is high. It often takes me two tries to get into the thing. A set of hooks in the back would have improved the whole experience. 

Comfort.  I was ready to take Eve off after about 4 hours. No specific areas of discomfort, except that section of the strap/upper cup that runs close to the armpit. This is really just an ever-present element of UK bra design and I'm not here for it. 

When Do I Wear It?

When I'm feeling that Beauty is more of a priority than Comfort. So, weekend sexy times, basically. Or date night out. Which works out nicely, since you're going to want some assistance in removing Eve. Because crazy straps.

Size. 42F (UK) Tutti bands run quite snug, so this fits me like a 40G, which is my actual size these days. It equates to a US 40H. 

Pricepoint. Regular price on ASOS is $19.50, which is a bargain for the brand. 

Sunday, February 10, 2019

Review: ASOS Design bralettes

Yes, I know I said I didn't believe there was any better large-bust bralette out there than Bali's Comfort Revolution - and that's still true in terms of support and pure comfort. But there are prettier bralettes out there, and they have their place. Plus, who am I kidding, what would I do with my spare time if my quest for holy grail bra/lettes ever succeeds?

So I decided to try ASOS' house brand. They also carry a lot of well-known UK brands. They unhelpfully (for anyone who understands UK sizing) convert the sizes into US...so you have to convert it right back if you're used to UK sizes - as most of us with big boobs are. 

ASOS DESIGN Fuller Bust Microfibre triangle bra


Despite the name, this is not a bra - it's a bralette. And it's barely that, more of a boob sling. That's not necessarily a bad thing when you want barely there, minimal support. It's very similar to a skimpy bikini top, especially the 'band'; we'll get to that.

Beauty.  
Very pretty, with sleek, clean lines. The cups are matte and the straps have a textured sheen. And it comes in multiple hues, including a range of skin tones. That's right: not just a single 'skin tone' option, but black, white, golden, chestnut and beige. Serious props to ASOS for this.

This color way is called -very strangely, if you ask me - Rust. Yeah. Something that puts you in mind of an old jalopy would not be my first choice, and clearly, it's a creamy muted coral. Which, coincidentally, would've been a much better name. Just sayin. 

Comfort & Fit. 
Cups. The microfiber cups are mesh-lined and actually provide some support. Yes, I would've preferred the silky fabric next to my skin, but it's still softish, so a decent trade-off. The triangle cut means there is minimal coverage on the inner cup. This causes two interesting effects: lots of cleavage, and lots of separation. Most bralettes have the opposite effect and tend to create a smooshed boob-loaf. Here, the vertical seam and wide-open center actually keeps my fairly close-set boobs totally separate. So that alone creates comfort. Because of this feature, plus the far more flattering style, I'd usually opt for this over the Breast Nest if I wanted to embrace that 'free range' feeling.


Band.  Yeah, the 'band' design is pretty silly. Literally a very thin - perhaps 3/4 or 1" elastic band with a 2-hook closure. That's it. They missed an opportunity to use a 2" microfiber-covered band that would have been comfy and increased support greatly. As it is, it's still surprisingly comfy-is, but wow, is it ever minimal. Here, let me magnify, in case you blinked and missed it:

This is it. Your entire 'band'. And very quickly, either one or both of these two things is going to happen. Your fluffy bits will roll it up until it practically disappears into said fluff, or, the weight of your boobs will drag it upward like this:


Do I care about this? Eh, not so much. This is that boob-sling effect I mentioned, and because it's not actually transferring much weight to the straps, it's not causing discomfort. And the shape I'm getting is all I need or want under pj's, for example. Is it ideal? No, of course not. Is it wearable? Sure, if it's comfy and if all you are looking for is gentle support in your own living room. I did actually wear it to the store today, under a loose dark sweater, and it was fine for that purpose. But normally, I wouldn't wear it out of the house/garden. 
Size: US 38I (UK 38G)

ASOS DESIGN Fuller Bust Roxy lace triangle bra




The only difference in these two styles is the fabric. This one is called, imaginatively, 'Red'. The mesh-lined lace is medium-soft. The lace edging did not irritate my skin, but is not as comfy as the microfiber style. 
Size: 40H (UK 40FF) 

When Do I Wear Them?

When I just want very light support and gentle, minimal containment. And I want something a lot prettier than my ultra-comfy Bali bralettes. So, ideal for weekend lounging and sexy times. While Mr. ComfyCurvy is politely neutral on the beauty quotient of Bali, his response to ASOS was "I'm here for it." So there you have it.

Sizing  The sizing is specific, not S-XL ranges. Bands don't run snug (I still have a hard time calling these 'bands') and I would say sister-sizing downward will work better than upward. I did get a more secure fit with the 38I than the 40H. The cups are not especially generous and are not meant to give much side coverage. The mesh lining means they are not overly stretchy. If you're full-on-bottom, no need to size up. Again, let the triangle bikini look set your expectations here. 

Pricepoint  I bought them on sale for $13 each on ASOS US website. Other colors are $19. The quality is pretty decent, too. 

Review: ASOS Design bralettes

Yes, I know I said I didn't believe there was any better large-bust bralette out there than Bali's Comfort Revolution - and that's still true in terms of support and pure comfort. But there are prettier bralettes out there, and they have their place. Plus, who am I kidding, what would I do with my spare time if my quest for holy grail bra/lettes ever succeeds?

So I decided to try ASOS' house brand. They also carry a lot of well-known UK brands. They unhelpfully (for anyone who understands UK sizing) convert the sizes into US...so you have to convert it right back if you're used to UK sizes - as most of us with big boobs are. 

ASOS DESIGN Fuller Bust Microfibre triangle bra


Despite the name, this is not a bra - it's a bralette. And it's barely that, more of a boob sling. That's not necessarily a bad thing when you want barely there, minimal support. It's very similar to a skimpy bikini top, especially the 'band'; we'll get to that.

Beauty.  
Very pretty, with sleek, clean lines. The cups are matte and the straps have a textured sheen. And it comes in multiple hues, including a range of skin tones. That's right: not just a single 'skin tone' option, but black, white, golden, chestnut and beige. Serious props to ASOS for this.

This color way is called -very strangely, if you ask me - Rust. Yeah. Something that puts you in mind of an old jalopy would not be my first choice, and clearly, it's a creamy muted coral. Which, coincidentally, would've been a much better name. Just sayin. 

Comfort & Fit. 
Cups. The microfiber cups are mesh-lined and actually provide some support. Yes, I would've preferred the silky fabric next to my skin, but it's still softish, so a decent trade-off. The triangle cut means there is minimal coverage on the inner cup. This causes two interesting effects: lots of cleavage, and lots of separation. Most bralettes have the opposite effect and tend to create a smooshed boob-loaf. Here, the vertical seam and wide-open center actually keeps my fairly close-set boobs totally separate. So that alone creates comfort. Because of this feature, plus the far more flattering style, I'd usually opt for this over the Breast Nest if I wanted to embrace that 'free range' feeling.


Band.  Yeah, the 'band' design is pretty silly. Literally a very thin - perhaps 3/4 or 1" elastic band with a 2-hook closure. That's it. They missed an opportunity to use a 2" microfiber-covered band that would have been comfy and increased support greatly. As it is, it's still surprisingly comfy-is, but wow, is it ever minimal. Here, let me magnify, in case you blinked and missed it:

This is it. Your entire 'band'. And very quickly, either one or both of these two things is going to happen. Your fluffy bits will roll it up until it practically disappears into said fluff, or, the weight of your boobs will drag it upward like this:


Do I care about this? Eh, not so much. This is that boob-sling effect I mentioned, and because it's not actually transferring much weight to the straps, it's not causing discomfort. And the shape I'm getting is all I need or want under pj's, for example. Is it ideal? No, of course not. Is it wearable? Sure, if it's comfy and if all you are looking for is gentle support in your own living room. I did actually wear it to the store today, under a loose dark sweater, and it was fine for that purpose. But normally, I wouldn't wear it out of the house/garden. 
Size: US 38I (UK 38G)

ASOS DESIGN Fuller Bust Roxy lace triangle bra




The only difference in these two styles is the fabric. This one is called, imaginatively, 'Red'. The mesh-lined lace is medium-soft. The lace edging did not irritate my skin, but is not as comfy as the microfiber style. 
Size: 40H (UK 40FF) 

When Do I Wear Them?

When I just want very light support and gentle, minimal containment. And I want something a lot prettier than my ultra-comfy Bali bralettes. So, ideal for weekend lounging and sexy times. While Mr. ComfyCurvy is politely neutral on the beauty quotient of Bali, his response to ASOS was "I'm here for it." So there you have it.

Sizing  The sizing is specific, not S-XL ranges. Bands don't run snug (I still have a hard time calling these 'bands') and I would say sister-sizing downward will work better than upward. I did get a more secure fit with the 38I than the 40H. The cups are not especially generous and are not meant to give much side coverage. The mesh lining means they are not overly stretchy. If you're full-on-bottom, no need to size up. Again, let the triangle bikini look set your expectations here. 

Pricepoint  I bought them on sale for $13 each on ASOS US website. Other colors are $19. The quality is pretty decent, too. 

Saturday, January 26, 2019

How Should Bras Fit?

There is a lot of info out there on 'proper' bra fit, and a couple of different schools of thought. But there is general consensus on a few points: bands should be snug, cups fully encasing the boobs, not too much weight on the straps. From there, opinions diverge: high vs. low wires, wide-set vs. close-in straps, tacking of gores, Euro vs. UK vs. US cup shapes.

My opinion is: if it's not comfortable, then it is not 'proper' fit. Even if it looks perfect and meets all fit criteria. Yes, I know this is a minority opinion. 

The purpose of bras -and beliefs about the way they should fit- has changed over the decades. And centuries. But, with the exception of the 1950s, bras were mainly meant to make women more comfortable. And that didn't always mean support, so much as protection from rougher fabrics and a little bounce/flop reduction. Let's take a short walk through the last century to see what I mean.

I remember my grandmother talking about what bras were like in the 1920s, when she was a young woman, and probably around a 34B/32C. They were like a loose bralette-cami, and served more as a liner under a dress, to protect the skin and give you a smoother look; "lift" or separation was definitely not a goal. Something like this would be what she would have chosen to wear under a dress:

For a little more support, she described a crop-top style that she would wear if she was going to be more active, such as dancing or a lot of walking:
nowthatslingerie.com
Cue the '40s and onward and Nana embraced the 'cross-your-heart' style and pretty much wore it for the last half-century of her life, into the mid-1980s. 
Though I very much doubt she would have worn any color but white: too racy, plus she was of the generation that believed Clorox could kill all the ills of the world. And I'm fairly certain she never wore an underwire in her whole long life. She probably considered it a pointless invention, like the cordless phone. Bras were simply not much of an issue for her, at her time in history: all she expected was a slight amount of support and separation; lift and shape were simply not a priority as we view it today, when clothing itself provided the shape and involved non-stretch heavier fabrics, shaped with princess seams or darts.

Next, cue the 1970s. My mother, around a 36DD (we see bust sizes begin to increase generationally at this point) absolutely loved the minimalist, seamless, sheer, front-hook styles of that era. I never saw her wear anything else until the late-80s. Every single bra my conservative-with-4-kids mom wore looked very much like the current Gossard Glossies bra, and that's what my friends' moms all wore, too:

Nobody cared about nipple show-through during that time (that freak-out would begin in the '80s) and everybody was just happy about the sheer lightweight nature of bras. T-shirt and foam bras weren't a thing yet. And still, nobody cared much about lift. I wore these styles from ages 13-16 when I was a 34D and they were pretty comfy. 

In the '80s things shifted, with push-up coming onto the scene and more padding, but the styles were still similar to the above, but in thicker, opaque silky nylon; but still seamless, with very centered straps. Nana switched to the lace-edged, triangle soft cup style, still with the front-hooks; there were a plethora of these in the '80s:
Image result for soft cup lace triangle front-hook bras
Alibabaexpress
By the '90s, Victoria's Secret was on the scene and the foam dome culture shift was in full swing. Here is when I started to find bra shopping torturous and was no longer able to find a comfy fit for my full-on-top 36G's. I did what most women that size do: try to make a 38D work, because it's in the matrix of what is available and with firm, young boobs the size mismatch isn't as apparent. I had a lot of bras like this into the late-90s:


And I even had one of the old Body by Victoria styles that was very comfy: lined in super-thin foam, including the wires, with laser-cut band. It didn't fit especially well in a 38DD but it was so comfy I wore it for years - even through 20-lb weight fluctuations. Looking at old photos of me in the bra, I'm surprised that it looks as good as it does under clothing. Like here, a dozen years and 40 lbs ago. 
I didn't yet care about bras. Why? Because I was not uncomfortable. Yet. When I finally had to toss out that old VS bra because the elastic was literally shot, I was living on the edge of the wilderness and very quickly realized I was in bra purgatory. And so began my now decade-long obsession with finding comfy bras that fit. By my definition. I'll go off about that more later.

After feeling pretty much alone in caring far more about comfort than the (pretty historically recent view of) fit, it is really gratifying to see what an article in a UK paper referred to as a 'revolt against VS' in favor of 'athleisure' i.e. bralettes. It is literally a return to the '70s in terms of prioritizing comfort above firm support - and then some. The current movement is bringing along the beauty, too. And I'm here for it!

Things are moving away from this kind of rigid, encased containment:
Image result for panache sculptresse
Panache
And a lot more in this direction:
Cosabella

However. I have seen a lot of near (and not-so-near) misses in terms of executing the comfort part in large cup sizes. There are some truly great options -as there have always been- for bras & bralettes for the 32A-36C crowd. But I really welcome the support for embracing our natural shapes (heh, see what I did there) and insisting bras are for our comfort, not our containment. 

Bottom line: If it is not comfy, then that simply is not proper fit. And perhaps it's our definition of 'fit' that needs to change. It really doesn't matter if your side-boob is not fully encased in a tall harsh wire, if it's not comfy; that is not proper fit for you. If a tight band hoists your boobs an inch higher, but doesn't feel good cutting into your flesh - again, that's not proper fit, regardless of what the tape measure says, or what current ideas on proper fit may be. Feel free to rebel and define what fit means to you. Decide what you want your bra to do for you: gentle support, bounce control, total separation, barely there softness? They're all valid goals and you get to choose which is important to you. 

How Should Bras Fit?

There is a lot of info out there on 'proper' bra fit, and a couple of different schools of thought. But there is general consensus on a few points: bands should be snug, cups fully encasing the boobs, not too much weight on the straps. From there, opinions diverge: high vs. low wires, wide-set vs. close-in straps, tacking of gores, Euro vs. UK vs. US cup shapes.

My opinion is: if it's not comfortable, then it is not 'proper' fit. Even if it looks perfect and meets all fit criteria. Yes, I know this is a minority opinion. 

The purpose of bras -and beliefs about the way they should fit- has changed over the decades. And centuries. But, with the exception of the 1950s, bras were mainly meant to make women more comfortable. And that didn't always mean support, so much as protection from rougher fabrics and a little bounce/flop reduction. Let's take a short walk through the last century to see what I mean.

I remember my grandmother talking about what bras were like in the 1920s, when she was a young woman, and probably around a 34B/32C. They were like a loose bralette-cami, and served more as a liner under a dress, to protect the skin and give you a smoother look; "lift" or separation was definitely not a goal. Something like this would be what she would have chosen to wear under a dress:

For a little more support, she described a crop-top style that she would wear if she was going to be more active, such as dancing or a lot of walking:
nowthatslingerie.com
Cue the '40s and onward and Nana embraced the 'cross-your-heart' style and pretty much wore it for the last half-century of her life, into the mid-1980s. 
Though I very much doubt she would have worn any color but white: too racy, plus she was of the generation that believed Clorox could kill all the ills of the world. And I'm fairly certain she never wore an underwire in her whole long life. She probably considered it a pointless invention, like the cordless phone. Bras were simply not much of an issue for her, at her time in history: all she expected was a slight amount of support and separation; lift and shape were simply not a priority as we view it today, when clothing itself provided the shape and involved non-stretch heavier fabrics, shaped with princess seams or darts.

Next, cue the 1970s. My mother, around a 36DD (we see bust sizes begin to increase generationally at this point) absolutely loved the minimalist, seamless, sheer, front-hook styles of that era. I never saw her wear anything else until the late-80s. Every single bra my conservative-with-4-kids mom wore looked very much like the current Gossard Glossies bra, and that's what my friends' moms all wore, too:

Nobody cared about nipple show-through during that time (that freak-out would begin in the '80s) and everybody was just happy about the sheer lightweight nature of bras. T-shirt and foam bras weren't a thing yet. And still, nobody cared much about lift. I wore these styles from ages 13-16 when I was a 34D and they were pretty comfy. 

In the '80s things shifted, with push-up coming onto the scene and more padding, but the styles were still similar to the above, but in thicker, opaque silky nylon; but still seamless, with very centered straps. Nana switched to the lace-edged, triangle soft cup style, still with the front-hooks; there were a plethora of these in the '80s:
Image result for soft cup lace triangle front-hook bras
Alibabaexpress
By the '90s, Victoria's Secret was on the scene and the foam dome culture shift was in full swing. Here is when I started to find bra shopping torturous and was no longer able to find a comfy fit for my full-on-top 36G's. I did what most women that size do: try to make a 38D work, because it's in the matrix of what is available and with firm, young boobs the size mismatch isn't as apparent. I had a lot of bras like this into the late-90s:


And I even had one of the old Body by Victoria styles that was very comfy: lined in super-thin foam, including the wires, with laser-cut band. It didn't fit especially well in a 38DD but it was so comfy I wore it for years - even through 20-lb weight fluctuations. Looking at old photos of me in the bra, I'm surprised that it looks as good as it does under clothing. Like here, a dozen years and 40 lbs ago. 
I didn't yet care about bras. Why? Because I was not uncomfortable. Yet. When I finally had to toss out that old VS bra because the elastic was literally shot, I was living on the edge of the wilderness and very quickly realized I was in bra purgatory. And so began my now decade-long obsession with finding comfy bras that fit. By my definition. I'll go off about that more later.

After feeling pretty much alone in caring far more about comfort than the (pretty historically recent view of) fit, it is really gratifying to see what an article in a UK paper referred to as a 'revolt against VS' in favor of 'athleisure' i.e. bralettes. It is literally a return to the '70s in terms of prioritizing comfort above firm support - and then some. The current movement is bringing along the beauty, too. And I'm here for it!

Things are moving away from this kind of rigid, encased containment:
Image result for panache sculptresse
Panache
And a lot more in this direction:
Cosabella

However. I have seen a lot of near (and not-so-near) misses in terms of executing the comfort part in large cup sizes. There are some truly great options -as there have always been- for bras & bralettes for the 32A-36C crowd. But I really welcome the support for embracing our natural shapes (heh, see what I did there) and insisting bras are for our comfort, not our containment. 

Bottom line: If it is not comfy, then that simply is not proper fit. And perhaps it's our definition of 'fit' that needs to change. It really doesn't matter if your side-boob is not fully encased in a tall harsh wire, if it's not comfy; that is not proper fit for you. If a tight band hoists your boobs an inch higher, but doesn't feel good cutting into your flesh - again, that's not proper fit, regardless of what the tape measure says, or what current ideas on proper fit may be. Feel free to rebel and define what fit means to you. Decide what you want your bra to do for you: gentle support, bounce control, total separation, barely there softness? They're all valid goals and you get to choose which is important to you. 

Sunday, January 6, 2019

Reviews: 3 Options from Leading Lady

Based on how useful and comfy I have found my Leading Lady cami-bralettes - which, naturally, now appear to be discontinued - I tried three more styles: a T-shirt bra, a long(ish)line bralette, and a sleep bralette. Let's see how they worked out for me:

Brigitte Molded Padded Seamless Underwire

Beauty.  Lots of pretty colors and patterns. I opted for Classic Cranberry, a juicy jewel tone with a subtle pattern. 

Fit & Comfort. What in the actual...?! Just no.....oh dear, no, no, no. I was not expecting this bizarre shape. It is both shallow AND pointy. I can't imagine how they accomplished this. Or...why they even tried to. The majority of the depth is way over at the outside of the cups, practically halfway around your back, with virtually none at the center of bottom. The gore is around 4" from my chest. A larger cup would not help since it would be up to my eyebrows, and still wouldn't have any depth. I can't assess comfort because the shape mismatch is so extreme.


I don't think this is a full-on-top issue, since most full-on-bottom shapes will not have the extremely shallow and side-weighted shape the cups demand. Perhaps the bra scales better in smaller sizes, who knows. But with the ultra-pointy silhouette, i.e. boob tent creator, I'd give this one a hard pass. 

Greta Wirefree Bralette

Greta had real potential, ruined by what, for me, is a fatal flaw - but may not be for you. 

Beauty. I find this sleek and pretty in the color way Modern Violet.

Comfort. Wonderful soft modal fabric, which is the gold standard for sensitive skin. The deep band is also soft and stretchy; in smaller cup sizes it gives more of a longline effect. The darted seams are actually non-irritating.

Fit. The cups have a lot of depth and capacity. The size range is impressively large, from S-5X. This is a 3X which equates to 38F-40H (US). Lots of stretch to accommodate different shapes.

Love the low sides! They taper away almost to the band in back, while still giving coverage where you actually need it. There is a very decent amount of lift and a nice rounded shape with some separation, too.


So, why oh why didn't this work for me? The straps. For some reason they decided to try to get fancy and make them an X-shape. 


Yeahhh, a really bad design move, especially for non-adjustable straps. It was the main complaint mentioned in reviews. Though I did not find them too tight, I found the place just endlessly uncomfortable. And awkward. I was constantly aware of them and hated the feel of them creeping ever more toward my neck. There is just no way to fix this, short of cutting the straps and reattaching them in a more sane configuration. Which is a real shame, as Greta is a stellar bralette in every other way. Bummer.

Bamboo Crossover Sleep Bra

This one was almost a keeper.

Comfort.  Bamboo is right up there with modal for sensitive skin nirvana. Once I had turned it inside-out so the seams and elastic would not annoy my sensitive skin, of course. This is something I have to do routinely, and was expecting. It's definitely comfy enough to sleep in.

Fit.  You can probably already see the issue coming.....Yeah, even though there is nice cup capacity on the sides:


There simply wasn't enough cup capacity in the front and center. Sadly, this style tops out at a 2X, and I really needed a size up. I thought about keeping it anyway, but I knew that the cutting in, especially on my larger side, would drive me nuts over time. Not to mention the annoyance that boobs tumbling out would cause if I actually tried to sleep in it. 


I actually liked the style and have no real complaints about the design. The drawback of reduced size capacity that always accompanies a crossover style are balanced by it being super easy to step into, as there are no hooks. Because Leading Lady bands run on the snug side, I think this size could work for you if you're between, say, a 36E-40F (US) especially if you're full-on-bottom.

Who Will These Work For?

I'd honestly just give all their wired styles a miss. It's just not worth the trial and error to -possibly- find that one style that doesn't have that truly bizarre shallow yet pointy cup shape. 

But the bralettes are actually worth a look. If you're petite, or actually like racerback or X-back styles, then Greta would be a great, very comfy option for you. And one of the few available in a truly large cup, smaller band size range - and at a decent price point. The Bamboo Crossover is a nice sleep bra option in you're in the size range. It's unfortunate they discontinued the highly practical and comfy cotton cami-bra style, but I will keep an eye out for new styles from the brand, in case they come out with something similar.

Price: All styles were around $30.