Monday, December 28, 2015

Review: Triumph Amourette, a modern classic

Triumph is usually thought of as a venerable British brand, but it was founded in Germany in the 1880s, as a corset company. Today its HQ is in Switzerland. The company is famous for the Doreen bra: the iconic, wireless, 1950s pointy pyramid shape. It is still a bestseller in many countries. 

For the past 20+ years, however, they have been best known for a style that is an instantly recognizable standby in the UK: the Amourette. Ironically, in the three years I lived in the UK, I never tried it. In fact, I never took advantage of living in bra heaven, because I was still fitting fine in a 36DD then; though I was probably a 34F, I was also 22 years old, and proper fit wasn't as critical then. So  I did what my Brit friends did and grabbed whatever seamless, non-padded bra was on sale at Marks & Spencer.

A few decades later, and back in the States, I bought the first of three Amourette 300s. They come in 3 different styles: a stretch lace underwire (the most popular, by far; a padded style in a true balconette shape; and a wireless stretch lace.

Comfort & Fit:
  • Fabric.  The stretch lace is fairly soft, lying quite flat under knits. The lace is sturdy and supportive - far more so than, say, Panache's Jasmine, and has a good deal of stretch, allowing for some size fluctuation. 
  • Cups.  The Amourette uses a more traditional 2-part diagonal seam structure. I actually like this as it allows for upper fullness in a way that some 3-part seamed styles, such as Freya's, do not. 
  • Band.  Triumph bands run really snug. Think Cleo snug. Even at my thinnest, I have to go up a band size. 
I think they have a retro beauty and shape. Almost an old school European aescetic: a pointier silhouette, yet not extremely projected; lace that is practical and comfortable, and sturdy; clean lines, without a lot of 'frippery', mean that even though the style is all-lace, it is not overly girly or ornate.

Band.  Along with running tight, the wired versions have only 2-hooks. They are widely spaced, and the band is otherwise well-constructed with flat, wide elastic that spreads weight more evenly. But still, 2 hooks. However, the wireless version has 3 hooks, but runs even tighter. 

Shape.  This is purely a matter of personal preference, but mine is for a more rounded, natural shape. Not eerily orb-like, and challenging the known laws of physics, a'la Cleo, but definitely more rounded. 

Cup.  The shape is meant for a more bottom-full, or balanced boob shape. Also, a medium-shallow to slightly-projected one. I am full-on-top and moderately projected (perhaps more than that, since most of my complaints involve the need for more projection near the gore).

When Do I Wear It?
When I want a moderate amount of comfort with a moderately high level of support, and medium projection. So, more structured clothing, like a blazer or button-down. 
Sizes:  40G (wired versions) or 40F/42E (wireless
Notes:  the wireless runs a full band size smaller, and almost a cup larger. E.g. I can still wear the 40E wireless I have with an extender. 

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