My Favorite Bra Comfort Hacks

If you read this blog, you'll know that comfort is my priority. And comfort and 'proper' fit often are not found together in the same bra. Not everyone has the time, energy, or money to make an obsessive quest hobby out of the search for holy grail bras. Sometimes, you simply have to make do with what you can find at an affordable price. The brand Delmira is a particularly good bet for this. Their bras are all versions of very popular bras from many different brands. So, if you liked a specific style, that gives you a starting place. 

Now, how do you go about bra-hacking your way to more comfort?

Determine exactly what is making you uncomfortable

•  Wires digging in at the sides

If neither band or cup are too tight, then this is likely the result of a 2-dimensional flat wire meeting 3-dimensional curvy, fluffy bits. 

Hack:   Bend the tips of the outer wire slightly outward, away from your body. It's best to do this while actually wearing the bra so you can feel exactly when you've reached the right angle. I do this on maybe 70% of my bras.

• Wires poking you in the armpit

You will often read that this means your band is too loose. Yeah, I strongly disagree. It's more likely that the wires are just too damn tall for comfort, and the result of a design philosophy that prioritizes containment. Hello, Panache. Wacoal is also a repeat offender.

Hack:  There's nothing you can do to fix an actual bra you already own, save remove the underwires and turn it into a wireless bra. This works best when it has wide, non-stretchy straps, and a firm band, since that's where much of the support will be. 

However, if you're in the try-on stage, sister-sizing is the hack to try. Go UP a band and down a cup. Although the cup volume is the same, this will often drop the wire height. It isn't true across all brands, but it meets the rule-of-thumb criteria: it is true 80% of the time.

Consider Polish and other Euro brands. Rosme in particular, shines with its lower-height wires. Anita is another brand that has some lower-height wire styles like the Pure Allure.

• Wires are digging into your chest/solar plexus

This is often caused by three things, sometimes combined in an unholy trifecta:  the bra has no underband, cups are shallow at the bottom, and you are short-waisted. I experienced this issue with these bandless Glamorise and Comexim styles.

Hack:  If you otherwise love the bra, try a bra-liner; the soft, padded fabric will provide cushioning and substitute for an underband. 

In terms of future shopping, you'll now know to avoid bandless, shallow-cupped styles. You also may want to try designs that dip up beneath the gore and put less pressure there.

• Bra fits well but the wires are just uncomfy in general

This is usually due to the wire type and shape of that specific bra brand being a total mismatch for your shape. 

Hack:  You cannot make these wires more comfy. Focus on avoiding the issue in the future: If the wire is super thick, sturdy and rigid, like Elomi, Panache, and Felina Paramour, then you know to strike those brands from your comfort list and look for softer, gentler wires. If you are getting chafing on your side/underarm area, check to see if the wire has the Nike swoop shape, as many UK brands do. If so, look for an upright U-shaped wire that stays close to the boob and does not wing back toward your side. Polish brands, and Euro brands in general, are a good bet for this. Even most US brands tend toward the U-shape.

• Harsh seams that are irritating

Hack:  If it is a bralette: flip it inside out. I do this on most of mine if they are crop top style. If it is cup seams that are irritating, that's non-fixable. 

• Bra has those mini-vampire stakes, also known as side-stays

These just suck as a life philosophy. There are very few that I can tolerate, and these are very soft and flexible, such as Empriente's. More often, you get get something like this:

  


Hack:  You do not have to put up with that. Rip them the fuck out. However you have to. Most of the time, I use scissors to make the tiniest snip I can in the bottom of the casing (that vertical strip of fabric that covers the little plastic torture device) where it meets the band and just slide them right out. Victory for Comfort: Achieved.

However, there are a couple of brands -Freya being the worst I've seen- where those nasty little suckers are actually sewn into the band. When, after a prolonged and bloody battle, you succeed in getting them out, you will see that they have three tiny holes -at each end!- where the thread attaches. Back when I still put up with brands that do this, I would make two small snips, then take a seam-ripper and blindly saw it back and forth at each end of the stay until I cut through all the threads. The only bra that ever was worth going into combat like that was the Freya Jolie.

• Scratchy lace

Hack:  First, always, always, always, wash a new bra before you wear it. You want to remove any fabric starch and processing chemicals. If it's still scratchy:
Do a loooong soak in fabric softener or hair conditioner. I add 1/2 capful to just enough warm water to cover the bra, then leave it there for at least 2 or 3 hours. Rinse. This is successful about 50% of the time for me. it's always worth a try before tossing a bra. That worked for the La Isla.

• Back Clasp is irritating/scratchy

Figure out which of these two things it is: the edges of the fabric are sharp and stiff, or, the fabric of the hook portion does not extend enough to completely cover the hooks, allowing them to scrape your back.

Hack:  For stiff clasp fabric, the fabric softener soak is not usually effective, and I resort to tucking a folded tissue beneath it. However, for the 2nd problem, the easiest fix is to simply fasten your bra on the middle hooks. If the band is too snug for that, then, after you wash the bra - while it is still wet - gently stretch the band out a bit. Do this one side at a time, so you don't distort the wires. This works best on a non-mesh band, though I have used this hack successfully on them too. It worked perfectly on the Rosme Rosabel. 

• Straps are irritating

I find this is usually due to a cheap, scratchy elastic being used and was a problem with almost every Curvy Kate I've ever had. 

Hack:  You really can't fix this. But you can mitigate it, to varying degrees, by loosening the straps. I'm not a fan of wearing straps super-tight for 'lift'. It creates a lot of discomfort, and, if your band fits, it is generally just a sign that you need to drop a cup size. 

• Bra fits well enough, but you're drooping

This is often an issue when you're between sizes, so you've gone up one, or, you've opted for the cup size that fits your bigger boob - which conventional wisdom advises you to do. 

Hack:  Yeah I'd advise doing the opposite: try fitting your smaller boob. Sometimes putting up with a little double-bubble is totally worth the trade-off in increased comfort. That was the case for me with the Delmira Floral Lace bra:

40G

In this case, dropping a cup gave me much better lift and significantly dropped the wire height. 

40F

The 40G might, arguably, be a better 'technical' fit, but that's irrelevant to what is the comfy, and therefore, the right fit, for me. 

• You are forced to settle for a white bra in your size

I realllly hate white bras. They are just useless in my wardrobe. They absorb color-rub from bright cotton fabrics, and don't even work for white blouses, which require a skin-tone bra to disappear. But if that's your only option in the style you want....

Hack:  Dye it. And if you are too lazy to dye it properly, with RIT, or, you have sensitive skin and that's a no-go, then use food coloring along with a squirt of lime juice or vinegar. Pretty much as you would with Easter eggs. I've done this many times and particularly liked the results of the pastel food dyes. 

Note: this won't work on cotton or all-polyester. The fabric needs to be have some blend of nylon to absorb the food coloring. Blends result in tonal effects, which are fun. I have a few old pics of this, such as this muted violet from mixing pink/blue, this once-bright blue (that is also a cautionary tale on why you cannot dry them in sunlight) and this pale pink, faded after 4 years. Basically, embrace your inner finger-painter and release any need for perfection, and this is a lot of fun. Plus, no matter how badly it turns out, it will still be better than a blinding granny-white bra.

There are many more advanced hacks you can do, some that practically re-make the bra, if you are seamstress inclined - which I am not, at all. If you have any simple comfort hacks I've missed, by all means, share them!

My Favorite Bra Comfort Hacks

If you read this blog, you'll know that comfort is my priority. And comfort and 'proper' fit often are not found together in the same bra. Not everyone has the time, energy, or money to make an obsessive quest hobby out of the search for holy grail bras. Sometimes, you simply have to make do with what you can find at an affordable price. The brand Delmira is a particularly good bet for this. Their bras are all versions of very popular bras from many different brands. So, if you liked a specific style, that gives you a starting place. 

Now, how do you go about bra-hacking your way to more comfort?

Determine exactly what is making you uncomfortable

•  Wires digging in at the sides

If neither band or cup are too tight, then this is likely the result of a 2-dimensional flat wire meeting 3-dimensional curvy, fluffy bits. 

Hack:   Bend the tips of the outer wire slightly outward, away from your body. It's best to do this while actually wearing the bra so you can feel exactly when you've reached the right angle. I do this on maybe 70% of my bras.

• Wires poking you in the armpit

You will often read that this means your band is too loose. Yeah, I strongly disagree. It's more likely that the wires are just too damn tall for comfort, and the result of a design philosophy that prioritizes containment. Hello, Panache. Wacoal is also a repeat offender.

Hack:  There's nothing you can do to fix an actual bra you already own, save remove the underwires and turn it into a wireless bra. This works best when it has wide, non-stretchy straps, and a firm band, since that's where much of the support will be. 

However, if you're in the try-on stage, sister-sizing is the hack to try. Go UP a band and down a cup. Although the cup volume is the same, this will often drop the wire height. It isn't true across all brands, but it meets the rule-of-thumb criteria: it is true 80% of the time.

Consider Polish and other Euro brands. Rosme in particular, shines with its lower-height wires. Anita is another brand that has some lower-height wire styles like the Pure Allure.

• Wires are digging into your chest/solar plexus

This is often caused by three things, sometimes combined in an unholy trifecta:  the bra has no underband, cups are shallow at the bottom, and you are short-waisted. I experienced this issue with these bandless Glamorise and Comexim styles.

Hack:  If you otherwise love the bra, try a bra-liner; the soft, padded fabric will provide cushioning and substitute for an underband. 

In terms of future shopping, you'll now know to avoid bandless, shallow-cupped styles. You also may want to try designs that dip up beneath the gore and put less pressure there.

• Bra fits well but the wires are just uncomfy in general

This is usually due to the wire type and shape of that specific bra brand being a total mismatch for your shape. 

Hack:  You cannot make these wires more comfy. Focus on avoiding the issue in the future: If the wire is super thick, sturdy and rigid, like Elomi, Panache, and Felina Paramour, then you know to strike those brands from your comfort list and look for softer, gentler wires. If you are getting chafing on your side/underarm area, check to see if the wire has the Nike swoop shape, as many UK brands do. If so, look for an upright U-shaped wire that stays close to the boob and does not wing back toward your side. Polish brands, and Euro brands in general, are a good bet for this. Even most US brands tend toward the U-shape.

• Harsh seams that are irritating

Hack:  If it is a bralette: flip it inside out. I do this on most of mine if they are crop top style. If it is cup seams that are irritating, that's non-fixable. 

• Bra has those mini-vampire stakes, also known as side-stays

These just suck as a life philosophy. There are very few that I can tolerate, and these are very soft and flexible, such as Empriente's. More often, you get get something like this:

  


Hack:  You do not have to put up with that. Rip them the fuck out. However you have to. Most of the time, I use scissors to make the tiniest snip I can in the bottom of the casing (that vertical strip of fabric that covers the little plastic torture device) where it meets the band and just slide them right out. Victory for Comfort: Achieved.

However, there are a couple of brands -Freya being the worst I've seen- where those nasty little suckers are actually sewn into the band. When, after a prolonged and bloody battle, you succeed in getting them out, you will see that they have three tiny holes -at each end!- where the thread attaches. Back when I still put up with brands that do this, I would make two small snips, then take a seam-ripper and blindly saw it back and forth at each end of the stay until I cut through all the threads. The only bra that ever was worth going into combat like that was the Freya Jolie.

• Scratchy lace

Hack:  First, always, always, always, wash a new bra before you wear it. You want to remove any fabric starch and processing chemicals. If it's still scratchy:
Do a loooong soak in fabric softener or hair conditioner. I add 1/2 capful to just enough warm water to cover the bra, then leave it there for at least 2 or 3 hours. Rinse. This is successful about 50% of the time for me. it's always worth a try before tossing a bra. That worked for the La Isla.

• Back Clasp is irritating/scratchy

Figure out which of these two things it is: the edges of the fabric are sharp and stiff, or, the fabric of the hook portion does not extend enough to completely cover the hooks, allowing them to scrape your back.

Hack:  For stiff clasp fabric, the fabric softener soak is not usually effective, and I resort to tucking a folded tissue beneath it. However, for the 2nd problem, the easiest fix is to simply fasten your bra on the middle hooks. If the band is too snug for that, then, after you wash the bra - while it is still wet - gently stretch the band out a bit. Do this one side at a time, so you don't distort the wires. This works best on a non-mesh band, though I have used this hack successfully on them too. It worked perfectly on the Rosme Rosabel. 

• Straps are irritating

I find this is usually due to a cheap, scratchy elastic being used and was a problem with almost every Curvy Kate I've ever had. 

Hack:  You really can't fix this. But you can mitigate it, to varying degrees, by loosening the straps. I'm not a fan of wearing straps super-tight for 'lift'. It creates a lot of discomfort, and, if your band fits, it is generally just a sign that you need to drop a cup size. 

• Bra fits well enough, but you're drooping

This is often an issue when you're between sizes, so you've gone up one, or, you've opted for the cup size that fits your bigger boob - which conventional wisdom advises you to do. 

Hack:  Yeah I'd advise doing the opposite: try fitting your smaller boob. Sometimes putting up with a little double-bubble is totally worth the trade-off in increased comfort. That was the case for me with the Delmira Floral Lace bra:

40G

In this case, dropping a cup gave me much better lift and significantly dropped the wire height. 

40F

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 40G might, arguably, be a better 'technical' fit, but that's irrelevant to what is the comfy, and therefore, the right fit, for me. 

• You are forced to settle for a white bra in your size

I realllly hate white bras. They are just useless in my wardrobe. They absorb color-rub from bright cotton fabrics, and don't even work for white blouses, which require a skin-tone bra to disappear. But if that's your only option in the style you want....

Hack:  Dye it. And if you are too lazy to dye it properly, with RIT, or, you have sensitive skin and that's a no-go, then use food coloring along with a squirt of lime juice or vinegar. Pretty much as you would with Easter eggs. I've done this many times and particularly liked the results of the pastel food dyes. 

Note: this won't work on cotton or all-polyester. The fabric needs to be have some blend of nylon to absorb the food coloring. Blends result in tonal effects, which are fun. I have a few old pics of this, such as this muted violet from mixing pink/blue, this once-bright blue (that is also a cautionary tale on why you cannot dry them in sunlight) and this pale pink, faded after 4 years. Basically, embrace your inner finger-painter and release any need for perfection, and this is a lot of fun. Plus, no matter how badly it turns out, it will still be better than a blinding granny-white bra.

There are many more advanced hacks you can do, some that practically re-make the bra, if you are seamstress inclined - which I am not, at all. If you have any simple comfort hacks I've missed, by all means, share them!

Review: Just My Size Women's Comfort Lace Hidden Shapers Bra

So, in my quest to add a few more wirefree and ultra-comfy options to my hardworking Bali Comforts for my recovery period, I tried another JMS. 

Spoiler: this style is no Satin Stretch miracle: Review: 3 Comfy Wire-free Bras

Comfort: Frankly, putting the word 'comfort' in the bra's name is a bit of an over reach. 

• Fabric.  Meh. The lace is not soft. I wouldn't go so far as to call it harsh or scratchy, but it is definitely sturdy and not smooth against the skin. I always wash a bra before wearing it - always. And it did improve slghtly after two washes, but I would not call it soft.
• Stretch. Simply not enough, especially in the cups. The capacity was unexpectedly small.
• Straps.  These are good; nice and wide, non-stretch. 

Beauty: it would seem to have potential here, especially for a wire-free, but, well...the pics kind of speak for themselves as to how it looks on the boobs.

Colorways:  Exactly one. White. Which is better than beige, since you can dye it.  Which I immediately did. I always use food coloring because I have super sensitive skin, and it has never irritated me. Notes: it will work on any fabric that contains nylon or elastane, in varying degrees: the higher the nylon content, the better the dye will take. It won't work at all on cotton, and to a lesser degree on acrylic. This makes for interesting effects. For instance, you will get two-tone effects with straps and lace. I should do a post about that sometime, including my um, less successful attempts. 

I am again foiled by northern lighting conditions. However, the violet-blue color on this turned out well. And the shape doesn't appear as awful as expected, although it quickly degrades from this after 30 minutes wear. Also, since Comfort with a capital 'C' was my sole purpose for buying this, I can't consider the bra a success.

Compromises, i.e., everything. 

Band.  Runs loose, significantly reducing the possibility of sister-sizing. I prefer a 38 the vast majority of the time, which is +2 for me. I would need a 40 in this brand, as their bands run slightly snug compared to UK brands. 

Cups.  Disappointingly small. The lace fabric doesn't have enough stretch to be useful or add to the comfort much. 

Fabric. As above. Textured and nubbly against the skin, though the lace flourishes on the underband are oddly non-irritating. 

Side support.  Doesn't really work. There is a slightly padded vertical seamed section meant to bring tissue forward and give a better shape. It just really doesn't accomplish its mission.

When Do I Wear It?

Pretty much only during this recovery period where I cannot tolerate underwire because of the crutches. And even then, only when both Bali Comforts and the far superior JMS Satin Stretch are all in the laundry. 

Size:  42DD (a 40DDD may have given a better fit, but I was unable to locate any in that size)

Review: Just My Size Women's Comfort Lace Hidden Shapers Bra

So, in my quest to add a few more wirefree and ultra-comfy options to my hardworking Bali Comforts for my recovery period, I tried another JMS. 

Spoiler: this style is no Satin Stretch miracle: Review: 3 Comfy Wire-free Bras

Comfort: Frankly, putting the word 'comfort' in the bra's name is a bit of an over reach. 

• Fabric.  Meh. The lace is not soft. I wouldn't go so far as to call it harsh or scratchy, but it is definitely sturdy and not smooth against the skin. I always wash a bra before wearing it - always. And it did improve slghtly after two washes, but I would not call it soft.
• Stretch. Simply not enough, especially in the cups. The capacity was unexpectedly small.
• Straps.  These are good; nice and wide, non-stretch. 

Beauty: it would seem to have potential here, especially for a wire-free, but, well...the pics kind of speak for themselves as to how it looks on the boobs.

Colorways:  Exactly one. White. Which is better than beige, since you can dye it.  Which I immediately did. I always use food coloring because I have super sensitive skin, and it has never irritated me. Notes: it will work on any fabric that contains nylon or elastane, in varying degrees: the higher the nylon content, the better the dye will take. It won't work at all on cotton, and to a lesser degree on acrylic. This makes for interesting effects. For instance, you will get two-tone effects with straps and lace. I should do a post about that sometime, including my um, less successful attempts. 

I am again foiled by northern lighting conditions. However, the violet-blue color on this turned out well. And the shape doesn't appear as awful as expected, although it quickly degrades from this after 30 minutes wear. Also, since Comfort with a capital 'C' was my sole purpose for buying this, I can't consider the bra a success.

Compromises, i.e., everything. 

Band.  Runs loose, significantly reducing the possibility of sister-sizing. I prefer a 38 the vast majority of the time, which is +2 for me. I would need a 40 in this brand, as their bands run slightly snug compared to UK brands. 

Cups.  Disappointingly small. The lace fabric doesn't have enough stretch to be useful or add to the comfort much. 

Fabric. As above. Textured and nubbly against the skin, though the lace flourishes on the underband are oddly non-irritating. 

Side support.  Doesn't really work. There is a slightly padded vertical seamed section meant to bring tissue forward and give a better shape. It just really doesn't accomplish its mission.

When Do I Wear It?

Pretty much only during this recovery period where I cannot tolerate underwire because of the crutches. And even then, only when both Bali Comforts and the far superior JMS Satin Stretch are all in the laundry. 

Size:  42DD (a 40DDD may have given a better fit, but I was unable to locate any in that size)

Review: Bali Comfort Revolution: Feel the Unapologetic Joy

This is the one. The one I turn to when I need to be 100% comfortable and I give zero f*cks about fit. Because, I just cannot. Just.Can.Not. I found this bralette when I underwent emergency surgery and was facing a 3 week recovery, most of which was spent in bed, or sitting on my sofa in a fleece bathrobe. Even after that period I still had tender scar tissue, inconveniently located right at my waist, to contend with. It was for this reason that I embraced the low-rise jeans era, as high waists hit right on the scar. OK, I really mean the mid-rise, because the depths to which the low-rise sunk got, well, crazy. 

Anyhoo, ultimate comfort was imperative during this time, and although I was lean & buff then, I was still a 36FF. Luckily, I had just bought the Bali Comfort on an impulse while shopping for towels one day. A very serendipitous impulse, it turned out. And in the years following I whip this one out when I want ultra-soft, comforting support that I can sleep in if required. Note: there is virtually nothing I can sleep in without tweaking. E.g., I must turn my already soft sleep T's inside out or the seams will leave welts by morning.

My salvation: 

And, the very first version I bought, still going strong after 4 years, that I bought in white & dyed lilac with food coloring. I accidentally left it drying outside in the garden on what turned into a rare sunny day, & the result was a tie-dyed effect:

Honestly, the shape is really not bad. This is basically my natural shape, but better, i.e., a bit more lifted, centered, and supported. My boyfriend actually mentioned that he preferred it to the jacked-up shape of my Cleo Ellis. I know, right? A surprise to me, too.

Comfort: 

• Fabric:  This bra is allllll about comfort. Soft, soft, soft. Stretchy, stretchy, stretchy. Softer, thicker, and far more substantial than say, the Rhonda Shear Ahhh Bra. Ahhhhh. It wraps you in a cloud of comfort that conforms gently to your body and feels soothing if you have boob swelling or skin irritation. It does not provide compression, but hold.
• Band:  3 hooks, with a padded clasp. I almost fainted from the sheer joy of the pillowy padding protecting my skin from the hooks, while I was laying in bed for weeks. Sheer. Joy. WTF don't more brands do this simple thing that adds so much comfort?
• Cup capacity:  Surprisingly decent. I am a 38GG and I think this size could reasonably accommodate between a 36FF - 40GG.
• Support:  Better than expected, due to the fabric and the more substantial band than other pull-over types of  'leisure bra'. I actually wore this to work, out of necessity, when I was healing, and I felt comfortable. The lift was acceptable, and the shape softer and pretty natural. It was especially good under button-downs and sweaters. I'm not sure I would wear this to work under a fitted knit top, but I certainly do at home on weekends. 

Beauty:

• OK, it might be a stretch applying this category, but this bra has been so uber-successful for Bali that it comes in a plethora of colors and subtle textures. I have no need to buy white and dye it anymore.  I have it in the steel gray above, and will purchase a bright navy next.

Compromises:

 Straps.  This is a fairly minor quibble, but the edged banding on the straps is not my favorite construction. They don't dig, but I would have preferred a softer, flatter design. Still, they are wide and pretty comfortable, so this may just be a 'me' thing, and my own dislike of non-flat seams.

Note: there is a wired version, and it sucks. At least for full-on-top or projected shapes.  It has a steeply angled neckline and more triangular cup shape that cuts into upper tissue, greatly reducing the cup capacity. I removed the wires, and it still fits 2 cup sizes smaller than the wire-free. Can't recommend it for above a DD cup.

When Do I Wear It?  

After I whip off my wired bra at home following a tiring day at work. To bed, when I have PMS swelling. On a plane trip that's longer than 4 hours. On weekends when I'm just wallowing in chocolate & Netflix. When I have house guests and want to feel comfortable, not awkward, during that morning bumbling around for coffee in the kitchen part of the day.
Size:  XXL

Review: Freya Jolie, an old faithful

Along with the Pollyanna, the Freya Jolie was my first truly well-fitting bra, and these are the only Freya's that have worked for me since I passed the G barrier, when the styling changes to become almost unrecognizable as the same style in G-and-under. 

The Jolie is deeply surprising in its ability to accommodate serious size fluctuation. Despite an increase of one full cup size and around 1/2 a band size in the last year, I am still comfortably wearing the same 36GG Jolie I bought 4 years ago! (They also hold up very well.) More surprising still is that it contains no stretch fabric in the upper cup, and yet is one of the few full-on-top friendly styles from Freya (the other is the Marvel, which was short-lived, and a very wide 1/2-cup).

Jolie once came in fashion colors like a cheery bubblegum pink that was flattering on many skin tones, a deep purple, and more. Now, however, she is sadly only available in the continuity colors of black and white, having been replaced by Gemm, which Freya considers their Jolie successor (sorry, she is anything but; very full-on-top unfriendly, with a non-tacking gore and an edging along the band that is sharp and irritating). So, I bought a white one and dyed it bubblegum pink with food coloring and lime juice. After 3 years, it has faded to a pale pink which is still waaaay preferable to white for me. I also managed to buy one in red, the last colorway that was available. (An aside: I've just noticed the preponderance of red bras I have reviewed. What we can conclude from this is that when a style otherwise only available in neutrals decides to finally offer a single color option, it's usually red. Corporate imagination run wild, people.)

Here she is:

Comfort Profile:

• Straps.  I love them. I know some folks find them too wide - I've even seen them called 'industrial' - but I find them heavenly. They are wide, spreading the pressure so perfectly, my shoulders never even feel it; with diamond stitching and the barest soft embroidered edging; they do not move, but stay exactly where you want them. And they are pretty, with tiny rosebuds and looped ribbon at the base. I care not at all when they peek out.
• Cup depth. More than any other Freya I've tried, the Jolie accommodates projection and size fluctuation. Lots of room near the gore for immediate projection, which is fairly difficult to find. This is great for a balanced or full-on-top shape, but can cause gaping on a full-on-bottom shape. 
• Fabric.  Light, semi-sheer, but sturdy. The inner side is flat and soft, while the outer has an embossed, quirky, subtle lacy pattern of stylized flowers; very slightly raised, but doesn't show through clothing. Extremely breathable and great for summer. Not that I have much call for that here. But when I visited California wine country in the 95F summer, I packed both my Jolies. They hand-washed and dried very easily and quickly. 

Compromises:

Shape.  I find all Freya balconettes a bit pointy. Jolie is less so than many other styles, but still, I prefer a rounder shape. Some call it a 'natural' shape, and for some, certainly it is. But, though moderately projected, my own natural shape is quite rounded. Not eerily orb-like, a'la Cleo, but a still a rounded shape with a softer peak. Naturally, that is what I'm seeking when I want a natural shape. It's not horrible under clothing, but is noticeable in photos where I am wearing a loose, thicker T-shirt: a rather projected, slightly pointy, matronly shape. 

Band.  Annnnnd here we are. We've arrived at the bane of all Freya's: their dreadful bands. Harsh mesh, which, while endurable after many washings, is not the problem that cannot be solved. That would be the oddly narrow - read: 'biting, cutting' - tiny, edge of elastic that runs all along the top & bottom of the band - and is tighter than the otherwise normally proportioned 3-hook band. Why, Freya? For the love of all that is holy, why? It runs very loose. I prefer a 38 virtually always, and have no problem sister-sizing to a 40, especially in snugger-running US brands. But the Jolie really does run a size big. All other Freya's I've tried run much tighter.

Wires.  They are actually quite comfortable and fall at a nice height under the arm for me. Rather it's that winging back Nike swoop shape that many UK brands embrace. The wires are not particularly wide, but this shape makes them wider than I need on the side. I do bend them very slightly away from my body at the sides, which makes them fit much better and they do not dig in once I've done this.

Side Stays.  I despise these. Their sole purpose seems to be digging into your flesh from both ends, above and below, as soon as you attempt to it down. This is not the kind of 'support' I need from any garment. I remove them immediately from any Freya, using a seam-ripper to dig out these harsh, plastic, vampire-stake shaped little nightmares. And they are sown in really well; it's a battle I have to be determined to win.

When Do I Wear It?  When I need a 'locked & loaded', contained but not minimized type of support, with perfect separation. And I need a very lightweight fabric & construction when it's hot and I need to travel light. 
Size:  36GG 



 

Review: Bali Comfort Revolution: Feel the Unapologetic Joy

This is the one. The one I turn to when I need to be 100% comfortable and I give zero f*cks about fit. Because, I just cannot. Just.Can.Not. I found this bralette when I underwent emergency surgery and was facing a 3 week recovery, most of which was spent in bed, or sitting on my sofa in a fleece bathrobe. Even after that period I still had tender scar tissue, inconveniently located right at my waist, to contend with. It was for this reason that I embraced the low-rise jeans era, as high waists hit right on the scar. OK, I really mean the mid-rise, because the depths to which the low-rise sunk got, well, crazy. 

Anyhoo, ultimate comfort was imperative during this time, and although I was lean & buff then, I was still a 36FF. Luckily, I had just bought the Bali Comfort on an impulse while shopping for towels one day. A very serendipitous impulse, it turned out. And in the years following I whip this one out when I want ultra-soft, comforting support that I can sleep in if required. Note: there is virtually nothing I can sleep in without tweaking. E.g., I must turn my already soft sleep T's inside out or the seams will leave welts by morning.

My salvation: 

And, the very first version I bought, still going strong after 4 years, that I bought in white & dyed lilac with food coloring. I accidentally left it drying outside in the garden on what turned into a rare sunny day, & the result was a tie-dyed effect:

Honestly, the shape is really not bad. This is basically my natural shape, but better, i.e., a bit more lifted, centered, and supported. My boyfriend actually mentioned that he preferred it to the jacked-up shape of my Cleo Ellis. I know, right? A surprise to me, too.

Comfort: 

• Fabric:  This bra is allllll about comfort. Soft, soft, soft. Stretchy, stretchy, stretchy. Softer, thicker, and far more substantial than say, the Rhonda Shear Ahhh Bra. Ahhhhh. It wraps you in a cloud of comfort that conforms gently to your body and feels soothing if you have boob swelling or skin irritation. It does not provide compression, but hold.
• Band:  3 hooks, with a padded clasp. I almost fainted from the sheer joy of the pillowy padding protecting my skin from the hooks, while I was laying in bed for weeks. Sheer. Joy. WTF don't more brands do this simple thing that adds so much comfort?
• Cup capacity:  Surprisingly decent. I am a 38GG and I think this size could reasonably accommodate between a 36FF - 40GG.
• Support:  Better than expected, due to the fabric and the more substantial band than other pull-over types of  'leisure bra'. I actually wore this to work, out of necessity, when I was healing, and I felt comfortable. The lift was acceptable, and the shape softer and pretty natural. It was especially good under button-downs and sweaters. I'm not sure I would wear this to work under a fitted knit top, but I certainly do at home on weekends. 

Beauty:

• OK, it might be a stretch applying this category, but this bra has been so uber-successful for Bali that it comes in a plethora of colors and subtle textures. I have no need to buy white and dye it anymore.  I have it in the steel gray above, and will purchase a bright navy next.

Compromises:

 Straps.  This is a fairly minor quibble, but the edged banding on the straps is not my favorite construction. They don't dig, but I would have preferred a softer, flatter design. Still, they are wide and pretty comfortable, so this may just be a 'me' thing, and my own dislike of non-flat seams.

Note: there is a wired version, and it sucks. At least for full-on-top or projected shapes.  It has a steeply angled neckline and more triangular cup shape that cuts into upper tissue, greatly reducing the cup capacity. I removed the wires, and it still fits 2 cup sizes smaller than the wire-free. Can't recommend it for above a DD cup.

When Do I Wear It?  

After I whip off my wired bra at home following a tiring day at work. To bed, when I have PMS swelling. On a plane trip that's longer than 4 hours. On weekends when I'm just wallowing in chocolate & Netflix. When I have house guests and want to feel comfortable, not awkward, during that morning bumbling around for coffee in the kitchen part of the day.
Size:  XXL

Review: Freya Jolie, an old faithful

Along with the Pollyanna, the Freya Jolie was my first truly well-fitting bra, and these are the only Freya's that have worked for me since I passed the G barrier, when the styling changes to become almost unrecognizable as the same style in G-and-under. 

The Jolie is deeply surprising in its ability to accommodate serious size fluctuation. Despite an increase of one full cup size and around 1/2 a band size in the last year, I am still comfortably wearing the same 36GG Jolie I bought 4 years ago! (They also hold up very well.) More surprising still is that it contains no stretch fabric in the upper cup, and yet is one of the few full-on-top friendly styles from Freya (the other is the Marvel, which was short-lived, and a very wide 1/2-cup).

Jolie once came in fashion colors like a cheery bubblegum pink that was flattering on many skin tones, a deep purple, and more. Now, however, she is sadly only available in the continuity colors of black and white, having been replaced by Gemm, which Freya considers their Jolie successor (sorry, she is anything but; very full-on-top unfriendly, with a non-tacking gore and an edging along the band that is sharp and irritating). So, I bought a white one and dyed it bubblegum pink with food coloring and lime juice. After 3 years, it has faded to a pale pink which is still waaaay preferable to white for me. I also managed to buy one in red, the last colorway that was available. (An aside: I've just noticed the preponderance of red bras I have reviewed. What we can conclude from this is that when a style otherwise only available in neutrals decides to finally offer a single color option, it's usually red. Corporate imagination run wild, people.)

Here she is:

Comfort Profile:

• Straps.  I love them. I know some folks find them too wide - I've even seen them called 'industrial' - but I find them heavenly. They are wide, spreading the pressure so perfectly, my shoulders never even feel it; with diamond stitching and the barest soft embroidered edging; they do not move, but stay exactly where you want them. And they are pretty, with tiny rosebuds and looped ribbon at the base. I care not at all when they peek out.
• Cup depth. More than any other Freya I've tried, the Jolie accommodates projection and size fluctuation. Lots of room near the gore for immediate projection, which is fairly difficult to find. This is great for a balanced or full-on-top shape, but can cause gaping on a full-on-bottom shape. 
• Fabric.  Light, semi-sheer, but sturdy. The inner side is flat and soft, while the outer has an embossed, quirky, subtle lacy pattern of stylized flowers; very slightly raised, but doesn't show through clothing. Extremely breathable and great for summer. Not that I have much call for that here. But when I visited California wine country in the 95F summer, I packed both my Jolies. They hand-washed and dried very easily and quickly. 

Compromises:

Shape.  I find all Freya balconettes a bit pointy. Jolie is less so than many other styles, but still, I prefer a rounder shape. Some call it a 'natural' shape, and for some, certainly it is. But, though moderately projected, my own natural shape is quite rounded. Not eerily orb-like, a'la Cleo, but a still a rounded shape with a softer peak. Naturally, that is what I'm seeking when I want a natural shape. It's not horrible under clothing, but is noticeable in photos where I am wearing a loose, thicker T-shirt: a rather projected, slightly pointy, matronly shape. 

Band.  Annnnnd here we are. We've arrived at the bane of all Freya's: their dreadful bands. Harsh mesh, which, while endurable after many washings, is not the problem that cannot be solved. That would be the oddly narrow - read: 'biting, cutting' - tiny, edge of elastic that runs all along the top & bottom of the band - and is tighter than the otherwise normally proportioned 3-hook band. Why, Freya? For the love of all that is holy, why? It runs very loose. I prefer a 38 virtually always, and have no problem sister-sizing to a 40, especially in snugger-running US brands. But the Jolie really does run a size big. All other Freya's I've tried run much tighter.

Wires.  They are actually quite comfortable and fall at a nice height under the arm for me. Rather it's that winging back Nike swoop shape that many UK brands embrace. The wires are not particularly wide, but this shape makes them wider than I need on the side. I do bend them very slightly away from my body at the sides, which makes them fit much better and they do not dig in once I've done this.

Side Stays.  I despise these. Their sole purpose seems to be digging into your flesh from both ends, above and below, as soon as you attempt to it down. This is not the kind of 'support' I need from any garment. I remove them immediately from any Freya, using a seam-ripper to dig out these harsh, plastic, vampire-stake shaped little nightmares. And they are sown in really well; it's a battle I have to be determined to win.

When Do I Wear It?  When I need a 'locked & loaded', contained but not minimized type of support, with perfect separation. And I need a very lightweight fabric & construction when it's hot and I need to travel light. 
Size:  36GG